George Brummel: The original dandy

You probably heard the word before. Dandy. Those rich, pompous, cocky and despicable images of men. What you might not know is that dandies were not just caricatures in fiction but rather a real-life popular movement. In fact, there are debatably some positive aspects to it. In any case, I find its history fascinating as it can be traced to one man: George Brummel. Let‘s follow Brummel‘s path to the heights of fashion!

The making of an icon

We are at the beginning of the regency era. The Brummel family were nobodies. No connections. No title. No money. Then, William Brummel (George‘s grandfather) secured an excellent clerical position for his son (in dubious circumstances). His son, also called William, would do everything in his power to attract what he had not: money and attention. First among his schemes was to make everyone believe that his son George was the illegitimate son of Prince Frederick (son of King George III). Turns out people believed him and that included George Brummel himself.

This probably put much weight on the shoulders of his son and affected his personality. The young George was brash, exuberant and sometimes despicable. But he also had a sharp wit and an impeccable sense of fashion that would make his career. Even as a schoolboy, he changed the school uniform: ditching the white stockings and cravat for some rich colour. Oxford attendees were quick to follow his lead which still is followed to this day. With brash fashion, he followed by flexing his superior wit - winning almost every Latin Verse competition he entered. With instant fame, people started to call him “Beau“ Brummel (from the French word for “good looking “).

Later joining the military, his charisma excused most of his caprices. He could skip early morning tasks. He dined with his superiors frequently. He became captain in less than three years (to the discontent of his elders). To Beau, military patrols were more a reason to show off his military fashion on horseback rather than anything to do with fighting… or discipline.

Going back to London, his fame only grew. He was THE trendsetter. Aristocrats looked up to him. People paid him to see him dress up (sometimes a dozen at a time). His most common attendees included the future king George IV. In any case, he was now famous and, completing his father‘s wishes, he quickly became rich. We cannot say he was a wise-spender. Essentially, his money was either lost to gambling or invested in his wardrobe.

An affair of style

At this point, you might be wondering exactly what was Beau‘s fashion style. Beau emphasized two aspects that were not common in his time: colour and contrast. Before Beau entered the scene, Britain didn‘t really have its own fashion style yet. It was still dominated by so-called “continental styles“ (read here French style). It usually included a uniform tailcoat of bright colour with a white cravat worn high on the neck. Of course, the debacle with Napoleon‘s France would put the continental style out of fashion. This would leave a slot that Beau was happy to fill in. So, yes, Beau would take the continental style and add colour and contrast. Color, in the sense, that he introduced various colors that were uncommon before. His favourite was probably a deep blue. Another wise political choice, since this was the colour of the Whig party which dominated parliament at the time. What surprised me most about his colour choice was that the colours he selected were more muted than before. We have written evidence that his contemporaries saw it as a reference to classical Greek sculptures which were also fashionable at the time. What is certain is that those muted colours maximize Beau‘s use of contrast. Down with clashing colours, hello to colours marrying each other perfectly without one overpowering the rest. We also know that Beau recognized the importance of matching colours to the skin tone.

Beau‘s attires were often simple but exquisitely chosen. His standard day attire consisted of a blue wool coat, a buff waistcoat, a white linen shirt, a white cravat, buckskin trousers and dark boots. Again, we see Beau‘s mastery of colour contrast and harmonization of the figure and control of the gaze. His most common evening attire was similar: a blue coat, a black (or white) waistcoat, black trousers, silk socks and black slippers.

The Dandy

But Beau‘s influence was not only his fashion sense. No, his character would also be central in creating a movement, a way of life in itself. Indeed, Beau Brummel would become the prototype for the kind of man that would flood balls and receptions of the 19th century. Each tried to mimic Beau‘s fashion and attitude as closely as possible. His character would become “the Dandy“. Here are the essential traits Beau‘s successors would imitate:

Physical distinction, with a tall and slender frame.
Being handsome (of course).
Elegance
Self-mastery
Aplomb
Independence
Wit
Blasé demeanour
Self-mocking sense
Egotism
Dignity
And, of course, capricious tastes.

Even if you didn‘t know the word “Dandy“ before this post, you KNOW dandies. Oscar Wilder, Charles Baudelaire, Marcel Proust and Stendhal were all dandies. Christie‘s Hercules Poirot and F. Scott Fitzgerald‘s Gatsby are also great examples.

Tipping my hat off

Well, that is all for today. I have to say that I consider myself devoid of any fashion sense. But even I must admit that I was tempted to buy fashionable clothes while researching this post. You know what? Maybe I will…

In any case, thank you and see you soon.

References

The life of George Brummel, Captain Jesse, New York, Scribner & Welford, 1886.
Of Dandyism and George Brummel, Barbey d‘Aurevilly, 1845.